Necktie Day: From status symbol to fashion accessory
October 18, 2023
More than 2,000 years ago, men already draped scarves or shawls around their necks.
One forerunner of the modern-day tie can be seen on the soldiers of the famous Terracotta Army in China. Many of the 8,000 clay warriors who guarded the tomb of the first Chinese emperor, Qin Shi Huang, draped dressy scarves around their necks.
Men's scarves were also trendy in Antiquity, for example among the Romans. Trajan's Column in Rome from 113 A.D. bears witness to this: On the 40-meter-high column, decorated with numerous reliefs, legionnaires can be seen wearing a knotted scarf around their necks.
During the Thirty Years' War (1618-1648), Croatian mercenaries wore scarves around their necks — which legend says, piqued the interest of the French king Louis XIV. He is said to have been so struck by the Croatian soldiers' silk scarves that he later introduced them into courtly fashion. They were tied to form an elaborate collar ornament, sometimes even decorated with lace.
The present French name for the necktie is said to have originated from that time. The knotted fabric was referred to as "a la cravate," which derived from "in the Croatian style."
An air of authority
The necktie as we know it today first came into fashion in the 19th century. Initially worn as a short and wide length of fabric, it became longer and narrower over time.
Today, the tie is sometimes long and narrow, sometimes wider, sometimes shorter, colorfully patterned or plain — depending on taste or men's fashion trends.
Whether worn as a fashion accessory or as a status symbol, a tie gives its wearer an air of authority and maturity. In certain professions, it is often mandatory for men to wear a tie: as a manager, banker, newscaster, representative and politician.
It's hard to imagine, for example, customers sitting across a flip-flop-and-T-shirt wearing banker during a loan discussion.
Forgoing ties also has symbolic power
But the symbolic power of a tie does not necessarily end when it is loosened or taken off. For example, when former US President Barack Obama watched live in 2011 as a US special forces unit tracked down and shot the most wanted terrorist of the time, Osama bin Laden. The photo from the "Situation Room" went around the world.
Seated amongst his staff, Obama, who is usually neatly dressed, was pictured in a polo shirt and a jacket raptly watching the events unfold on the screen. No presidential posturing: In this politically important moment, he is at eye level with the others, a team player.
Many male politicians like to take off their ties to be "one of us." This also inspires trust and makes people's representatives more approachable and human.
Snipping the tie off
In the mid-20th century, the tie became the symbol of the bourgeois establishment. It was predominant among the conservative middle class and bureaucrats, while men's fashion otherwise became more colorful and casual. Hippies were setting the trends, and the 1968 movement declared a war on the tie.
In Germany, women take the most radical action against the tie annually on Weiberfastnacht or Women's carnival night. Celebrated on the Thursday before Ash Wednesday, which marks the solemn period of Lent, women cut off men's ties, thus symbolically depriving them of their power.
This custom dates back to the time when women began to fight for their equal rights.
The hard-working washerwomen from the district of Beuel in the western German city of Bonn are said to have stormed Bonn's city hall for the first time in 1824 and cut off the ties of the — all-male — authorities. To this day, the storming of the town hall is a famous carnival custom and cutting ties is part of the tradition in the German cities where carnival is widely celebrated.
A sign of respect
Wearing a tie to weddings, funerals or job interviews is still a seen as a sign of good manners and respect today. If no other dress code is specified for a wedding, a man should wear a tie. The same applies to funerals. A neat appearance is also an advantage when applying for a job, and those who work in the financial sector should have an assortment of ties in their wardrobe anyway.
While men are subject to the tie obligation in certain situations, women are completely exempt from it.
However, women also enjoy wearing ties. According to the fashion blog "krawatten-ties.com," ("Krawatte" is the German word for tie) women's ties are extremely coveted. They are narrow and short or even — as in the style of the 1970s — particularly wide and trimmed with colorful, usually floral patterns, are tied loosely and do not sit at the top of the collar.
Whether forced or not, the tie has long since become a fashion accessory. Although the most commonly worn tie color is dark blue — and you can't go wrong with that — those who want to make fashion statements choose bright colors and patterns, even animal motifs.
This article was originally written in German and was first published on October 18, 2022.